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Q. I was recently dining at a Spanish restaurant and the manager -- who seemed to know what he was talking about -- said that many Spanish reds should be served chilled. Have you ever heard of this?
-- Larry Hirsh, New York
A. I've long believed that, just as most white wines are served too cold in this country, most red wines are served too warm.
Serving them chilled, not just cellar temperature, is something different. The tradition in Spain is to chill light, fruit-forward wines (called claretes) and serve them as you would a pink wine in the summer heat. But any serious red wine, the kind of wine you'd routinely pair with a meat or chicken dish, should be served cool but not cold, the room temperature of a drafty British flat in November. The nationality of the wine is immaterial.
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