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Q. While vacationing in Sicily, I came across a wine made from the Nero d'Avola grape – and loved it. The particular wine I had was the Firriato Harmonium, but that has been impossible to find here. -–Katlen Smith, Louisville, Colo.
A. Katlen, discovering local wines made from indigenous grapes is part of the fun of traveling abroad, but an annoyance when you can't find the same wines back home. Italy alone has more than a thousand grape varieties, and only a small percentage of them ever make it outside their home region, let alone to Louisville, Colorado.
Fortunately for you, Nero d'Avola – the "black grape" of Avola, which is a town in southeastern Sicily – is getting more popular on this side of the Atlantic, in part because the quality of Sicilian wines has surged upward in recent years. More and more importers now carry Sicilian wines, including a fair number of Nero d'Avolas, and they're getting better with every vintage.
The grape itself has a jamminess to it not unlike Zinfandel, but the brightness and acidic lift of a Dolcetto d'Alba. It can often taste like cherries, and can age relatively well. Inquire about the Pasqua & Fazio Mezzogiorno (under $10), the Morgante (about $15) or your Firriato Harmonium ($40, and not unavailable here) at your local wine store, but also keep your eyes open for more visible Sicilian options, such as the wines of Planeta and Tasca d'Almerita. They, too, will allow you to taste Sicily in a bottle.
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